White Cabbage Soup with Black Truffle

This is the poor man's dish of the collection, and probably the most interesting one. A savoy or white cabbage, an onion, beef stock: Molise peasant cooking in its most essential form, to which black truffle grated at the last moment adds a luxury that grows in the woods behind the house.

The cut matters more than anything: strip the leaves of their tough green parts and reduce them to a very fine julienne. Then stew them covered in an earthenware pan, turning often, until they collapse, and moisten with stock that is already boiling and full of flavour. Cooking takes half an hour if the cabbage is tender, longer if it isn't. Serve in deep plates or in the traditional earthenware soup bowls, with Parmesan and truffle added on the spot.

This soup is even better the next day, provided the truffle is always added at the table and never during cooking. You can lighten it by using vegetable stock instead of beef, or enrich it with a slice of country bread at the bottom of the bowl. A simple, direct red is the most coherent match for its peasant character.